Why you haven't heard from me...

Hi Readers.
You may have wondered why my blog, my radio show, my pet adoption videos, etc., have been a little scarce.  Well, to get right to the point, I am battling leukemia, and though I totally expect to kick cancer's butt, I've not spent as much time as I should answering your letters and keeping up with animal issues.  However, I do plan to get back into the swing of things, so please feel free to post some questions and visit us on Facebook too, leaving info about adoptable pets, or telling great success stories about adopted animals, or asking questions about pet care and wildlife.  Visit us at https://www.facebook.com/PetPlaceRadio/

In the meantime, be well, and I'll be writing more soon.
Best,
Dr. Marie Hulett

RIP - Momo - Best Cat Ever

For those of you remember the cat adoption story that we used once a year (Since 2006) in our Pet Adoption TV show for the Irvine Shelter, we wanted to let you know that at 19 years of age, Momo the kitty passed away yesterday, with Ariana (also 19) by his side. He was a great cat who we loved, and he will be missed. RIP Momo. https://youtu.be/cFrG2zAYMwg

Help! Adopted dog won't stop marking the house!

Hi, 

I saw your response to a person who wrote in about their dog that continues to mark. I'm hoping you can help. We adopted a 6 year old silky terrier about 9 months ago. He had spent his entire life before us outside chained to a dog house. He was malnourished and had flea dermatitis. He was also heart worm positive so we had to wait to have him neutered. He was neutered 3 1/2 months ago. He has marked in our house when given the opportunity since the day we got him 9 months ago. The only time he doesn't mark is in his kennel and when he's tethered on a 5 foot lead to our table or in our living room. 

We've had a trainer come to the house and her suggestion was that we have to catch him in the act to deter him from marking. She really didn't have much success with him at all the day she came to our house. She couldn't get him to sit or do any other more basic command. We spent a lot if time with the come command which she felt he wasn't responding to like he should have. It was a disappointing experience. The dog is nearly impossible to catch marking. I've followed him around the house for hours. He won't mark. The minute he can get out of sight he marks. As a result he spends his entire time out of his kennel tethered. I'm sad he has to exist this way but we've tried increasing the length of the lead and as soon as he can get out of sight and mark, he will. We have 4 children so having our eyes and attention on the dog all the time is unrealistic. Quite frankly this dog is requiring more attention and mind share than the kids. We do have 2 other dogs and it's not clear who is dominant, but it's likely the silky. 

I'm looking for suggestions and ideas. I'm also wondering if there are dogs out there that spend their life tethered in a home. He's always in the room with us. He gets lots of attention from the kids, dogs, and us. We walk him 30 min a day. He's well fed and loved. He just spends his time tethered since that's the only time he won't mark. He does wear a belly band but that's not fool proof and feeling wet seems to not phase him at all. I know it's a lot to try and change 6 years of learned bad behaviors. I'm just frustrated because we've been hard core with the house breaking since he was neutered and we've seen minimal improvement. We tried the house breaking before that too but he was crated a lot due to heartworm treatment and we had hoped the neutering would help so we weren't as vigilant as we've been the last 3 1/2 months. 

How long do we try to break him if this habit? Is this a process that will take years? At what point do we throw in the towel? We love him dearly and don't plan to give him up. We've committed to him. I just hate to think we've committed to having him tethered to our table the rest of his life. Your suggestions are appreciated. 

Best,
Meghan 

 
Hi there.
Thanks for adopting this little hard-case and thank you for not giving up on him.  You do not need to throw in the towel. We can fix this.

First - is there any possibility that this is a medical issue?  I.E., could he possible have a chronic bladder infection, or stones?  These types of conditions will make him feel as though he needs to urinate all the time.  If you haven't ruled out a veterinary problem - it might be worth looking into.

I assume you don't punish him for urinating in the house...right?  That never works.

Use a strong enzymatic cleaner on all areas where he has urinated.  Even if it smells clean to you, he may still detect that that was an area where he has peed before and he will want to "recharge" the spot.  Most pet supply stores and some veterinary clinics have excellent enzymatic urine eliminating products.  Ask the store manager or your veterinarian for their recommendations on the best product.

Also, if your pet sleeps in your bed with you, this will need to stop right away.  He'll need to sleep in a crate with a comfy bed at the foot of your bed.  The reason for this is he needs to know that you (and everyone else in your family) are the pack leaders.  A dog that understands he is not the alpha will not feel the need to mark.

BUT - while you are teaching him this lesson, I urge you to try this:
One of the absolute BEST products to use for dogs that mark are Belly Bands.  You can either purchase disposable or washable varieties and they come in all sizes.  They are like diapers and they wrap around your dog's abdomen, covering up his little fire hose!  Dogs HATE to feel wet, so if he urinates, it will go into the material of the belly band and not your furniture or flooring.  

You simply throw away the soiled belly bands, or wash them.  They come in many colors and are very comfortable for dogs to wear. Your dog will learn very quickly that when he "marks," he is only getting himself wet and nothing else.  It won't take long before he stops marking completely.  You can experiment a little after three or four weeks of using the product by letting him go without for a while.  Gradually increase the time he goes without and give him lots of toys and praise for behaving well.  Also, be sure to let him be "naked" when he's on walks or in the yard. But in the house, put them right back on until you feel confident that the habit has been broken.

Good luck and let me know how it works out!
I am going to feature this on my radioshow at www.blogtalkradio.com/petplace
Thanks for writing in.
All the best,
Marie

Flea "Season"

Fleas.  Dogs and cats are really struggling with these nasty blood-suckers, and based on what I’ve been hearing from  pet parents everywhere, it’s been a bad “season.”

I use the word “season” loosely because we didn’t really get our normal winter break from these pests.  Temperatures in our area never dropped low enough to put a damper on flea activity for any impactful period of time.  Consequently, these pests kept right on reproducing and causing our four-legged family members a whole lot of grief.  What’s worse is that because there was never a break in the flea reproduction cycle, there are more fleas than ever and THEY are all reproducing.  Sadly, we still have several more months of warm weather here in lovely Southern California, so things are only going to get worse before they get better.

If you have been using monthly, topical flea treatments, you have probably been noticing that they do not seem to be as effective as they used to be.  Fleas appear to have become somewhat resistant to these miracle products of the past decade and a half.  There are some new oral flea medications, but several of the side effects associated with this treatment (vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, loss of appetite, etc.) make a lot of folks a little nervous about using these prescription-only products.  Additionally, some pet parents are reporting that the effectiveness of these drugs has already decreased since they were first introduced a couple years ago.

Does that mean we all just have to wait until Old Man Winter comes to work his magic on the fleas?  No!

There are a number of things you can do that will help reduce fleas in your environment.  First, vacuum daily!  By giving your house a quick once over each day, you’ll eliminate fleas and their eggs that are in carpet, furniture, cracks between tiles, etc.  My little Pomeranian loves being vacuumed (with the brush hand tool attached), so he gets that “once over” also!  Not all animals enjoy, or even tolerate vacuums, so don’t put your pet through any trauma, and skip the body vacuum if it’s not appropriate in your case.  Empty and clean your vacuum’s waste receptacle after every use.  (Or if you use bags, replace the bags.)

Next, wash your pets’ bedding weekly.  If they are not washable, vacuum pet beds to the best of your ability.  Follow this up by bathing your companion animals with a species appropriate, gentle shampoo at least once a month during periods of warm weather.  The shampoo does not need to be pesticidal.  I would recommend a shampoo that is designed to soothe skin.  Lathering up and rinsing is enough to eliminate most fleas.   Use a flea comb after the bath to snag any straggler fleas that did not rinse away.

Sprinkle human-grade Diatomaceous earth all over your carpet, flooring, pet beds, or anywhere else that fleas seem to be hiding.  You can also sprinkle a little on your pets’ fur and brush it in.  Diatomaceous earth desiccates fleas but is harmless to pets and people.  However, it is important not to breathe in the dust as it could cause some respiratory irritation.  In other words, don’t apply it if you have fans that are operating, or there is a lot of wind coming in from the windows.  I would even recommend wearing a mask as you shake it around your house just to be extra careful.  Many pet parents have also reported good results by giving the perimeter of their yards a dose of diatomaceous earth.

Do not leave your pets outside because they have fleas.  Their situation will only worsen and they will suffer enormously.  The more time they spend indoors—where you can control fleas more effectively—the less of a problem they will have with fleas.  This is especially true for cats, all of whom should be indoors-only anyway!

A word of warning, you may find online recipes for flea-control that call for garlic.  Though it is true that garlic and fleas don’t mix, it is also true that garlic and pets don’t mix.  In fact, garlic is potentially very dangerous to cats and dogs so please do not use it.  In addition to garlic, steer clear of essential oils that are touted to be safe and natural. If consumed or absorbed, many can cause problems.

Finally, if your pet develops more concerning problems due to fleas, such as skin irritation, inflammation, oozing hot spots, anemia, intestinal worms, etc., please visit your veterinarian immediately. Fleas can be far more than just a nuisance and may pose serious health risks to our furry family members.

Hopefully, we will have a nice cool winter this year, but in the meantime, be diligent to keep fleas under control and your pets comfortable.

Puppy and Poison

Dear Marie:

My puppy is turning me into a nervous wreck!!  He is constantly getting into things that are potentially dangerous and eating them.  I keep thinking I’ve puppy proofed enough; but almost as soon as I start feeling comfortable about it, I find him into something else.  So far, we've been lucky and he hasn’t eaten anything toxic.  But what should we do if he does?  He is incredibly sneaky about getting things that I thought were out of his reach.  I  can’t be with him every waking moment and I’m afraid that his behavior is a disaster waiting to happen.  I really need help here!

Patty

Dear Patty:

I think you should immediately invest in a dog crate for the times when you can’t be with your dog.  If you are absolutely sure you’ve locked up cleansers and other dangerous chemicals (i.e. with baby proof cabinet locks, baby gates, etc.) and he is still, somehow getting to them, you really don’t have many other alternatives.  Besides, as I have mentioned in previous posts, dogs rather like crates because they give them the feeling of being in a den.  It’s a comfortable, safe feeling for them.

Even after taking these extra steps, your pet may still ingest poison when you least expect it. Consequently, you should always be prepared for this possibility.

Ask your veterinarian about his procedures for handling emergency situations, especially those that occur after normal business hours. You may find that you will need to take your pet to a special emergency veterinary hospital. If this is the case, keep the telephone numbers for your veterinarian as well as the emergency veterinary service in an obvious location.  (I keep mine posted on the refrigerator with magnets.) Check out the ASPCA webpage on poison control and emergencies: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

If your pet has been exposed to a toxic chemical, stay calm. Though you will need to get immediate veterinary care, panicking will prohibit you from taking the right steps to save your pet’s life.

Take a minute to collect the poison (and the container, if there is one) that your pet has ingested. Your veterinarian will need to know exactly what toxins are  involved.   You should also collect and bring in a zip-lock plastic bag any material your pet may have vomited or chewed.

If your animal is seizuring, losing consciousness, unconscious or having difficulty breathing,  call your veterinarian and be prepared to transport your pet immediately. 

Remember, toxins are not just found in cleansers and insecticides.  Most antifreeze products, unless labeled otherwise, are extremely dangerous.  Furthermore, this fluid actually tastes good to animals.  Frequently, unthinking individuals will drain their radiators out into the street gutters (which you're not supposed to do), and your pet may try and take a drink from these puddles while you are out walking together.  Keep on your guard for this potential hazard.  Also, many houseplants are extremely toxic if they are ingested.  Dogs will mouth just about anything, especially young dogs, because that is how they explore and experience their world.   For a great list of poisonous houseplants, click on this link provided by the Humane Society of the United States: http://www.humanesociety.org/assets/pdfs/pets/poisonous_plants.pdf.

Update Your Pets' Michrchips!!!

Not too long ago, a big, handsome, “senior” Labrador Retriever was found roaming the streets of Orange County.  A Good Samaritan rescued the dog from the dangerous situation, and temporarily brought him to his house.  During this time, he noticed that the Lab barked in what he considered an aggressive manner when other dogs were near, so when he took the dog to the animal shelter, he indicated to the staff that he had observed this behavior.  As a consequence, the dog was labeled “aggressive” and would not be placed up for adoption if the owner was not located.

But there was good news!  The big, yellow, smiling Labrador had a microchip!  The shelter’s office staff was thrilled and attempted to get contact information, but found that there were three different “owners” connected to the chip—one was the puppy mill where the dog was bred, the other two “owners” did not respond to calls or letters. 

For ten days the dog sat, confined only to his kennel because he had been labeled “aggressive.”  He watched, cold and alone, as other dogs were taken out for walks, pet by volunteers and potential adopters, or retrieved by owners.  No one came for him.

The shelter staff slated him for euthanasia on the eleventh day. 

Enter Labs & More Rescue.  A volunteer from this organization (a self-described pushover for big, goofy, yellow Labs) had originally seen the dog—who she named “Barney”—a few days earlier.  Even though the shelter staff had advised her that the dog was too aggressive to be placed, something told her that Barney needed her help; so she went back to the shelter. He was rescued just in the nick of time.

Volunteers from Labs & More assessed Barney’s behavior and found nothing of major concern.  They also had him vet-checked and discovered he had a number of age-related conditions, but not anything serious.  They began promoting him on their website, http://www.labsandmore.org, and took him to an adoption event; as a senior dog, it was going to be a difficult project to find him a new family.

But then Labs & More got a call from someone who had seen “Barney” on the website.  The person identified himself as the dog’s owner!  He explained that there had been a family emergency which required travel away from home.  The dog, whose real name is “Pepe,” was left in the care of a neighbor.  During the family’s time away, strong winds blew open their gate and the caretaker failed to search for the lost dog nor inform the family of the incident. 

Needless to say, they were horrified when they returned home and began checking shelters, with no luck.  Fortunately, someone suggested they check rescue websites, and that’s when they saw a picture of a dog that looked like Pepe on the Labs and More website!

They met with the volunteers who were fostering the dog, presented documentation to prove ownership, including the matching microchip number and photos, but the most obvious proof came when Pepe saw his people.  He was one excited dog and was happily reunited with his family which included a young boy who was clearly his best friend! 

Though this story has a happy ending, it could have ended terribly.  There are several lessons here.  First, if your pet is microchipped, make sure you have updated emergency contact information in the microchip company’s database.  That way, if you are out of town, an alternate person(s) can be contacted to help.  Second, always keep a collar and I.D. tag on your pet that is engraved with your cell phone, or other emergency number.  Had Pepe been wearing a tag with a phone number, he would never have been taken to the shelter in the first place.  Finally, NEVER leave your pet in the care of someone that isn’t completely trustworthy and responsible. 

To conclude this tale, I leave you with this thought—Labs & More, and rescue volunteers everywhere are the heroes of this tale.  They tirelessly work to save pets in shelters and they deserve huge thanks from all of us who care about animals.   

Food Aggression in Dogs

Dear Marie:

I have adopted a Tibetan Spaniel who is, for the most part, a very sweet dog.  Unfortunately, he gets very possessive around his food dish and shoves my other two dogs, a Shih Tzu and a Pomeranian, away from the food.  He’ll even steal their treats and is always ready to fight.  I would like for them to get along and not have to separate them at feeding or treat time.  What can I do?

Rita

Dear Rita:

There are a number of things you can try; but if there is a possibility that your other dogs can be injured during the time it takes to train him, it may be best to feed him in another room with the door closed or outside.  You can even feed your two mild-mannered dogs in a different room with the door closed.  As long as they have a separate location, it's all good.  Use your discretion in that regard.

In the wild, dogs have a definite hierarchy which determines who eats first and who gets the best of the meal.  The alpha dogs always eat first and will definitely bear teeth and bite any other dog that attempts to “dine” at the same time.  Your Tibetan Spaniel seems to think he is the “alpha” of your pack.  If you have not had him neutered, do so immediately.  That should make a big difference in his “top dog” attitude.

When you offer dog treats, put a leash on your aggressor.  If he tries to act out towards your other two, immediately walk him away from the other two dogs and give him a command to sit our lay down.  When he does, praise him and give him a treat.  You can also use the leash method when feeding the three of them together.  By redirecting his focus to the fact that you are the one in charge and that you only approve of good behavior, he will slowly begin to be more tolerant of the other dogs.

Additionally, you should take his food away each and every time he acts.  As soon as he settles down, you may give him back his food.  Of course, he does need to be on a leash or he will just go into the bowls of his housemates, so be sure to keep him away from their dishes. 

Some dogs need space to feel comfortable while eating. It's a good idea to have each dog's food bowl a reasonable distance away from the other bowls.  Furthermore, if he tries to steal treats from the other dogs, don’t reward him by giving him his own treat. 

Experiment with training.  Fill up his food bowl and have him sit and wait until you give him the command to have his meal.  To do this, put him in "down-stay" or "Sit-stay."  (If you haven't mastered these yet, please begin basic training as soon as possible.) Place the food bowl about three feet in front of him.  He will immediately go for it.  You will need to pick up the food bowl and put him back into his down-stay position.  Once he realizes he has to wait, and follows your voice command, then you can allow him to come eat.  By completing this type of training, you are taking away his food dominance and that is really important with food aggression.

The moment he shows improved behavior, lavish him with praise.  Give him the chance to be successful.  Any progress should be rewarded in one way or another.  It will take some time; but with consistency and repetition his behavior will turn around.